Bike Lubrication
Bicycle lubrication is mostly about lubing the chain.
Next to maintaining air pressure in the tubes, lubrication is the most important bicycle maintenance procedure. Every cyclist needs to master lube basics.
What Lube?
Use a bicycle-specific lubricant. Do not use WD-40--that stuff is a degreaser and penetrate, not a lube, and it will hurt rather than help. Do not use motor oil. The majority of our mechanics prefer Teflon-based wet lubes, like Triflow and Prolink, which are excellent for all uses. For chains, other mechanics like wax-based dry lubes, which are discussed in a separate section. We do not recommend dry lubes except on chains.
For grease, use a bicycle specific product. We use Park Polylube, a silicon based grease.
How Often to Lubricate
Many people over-lubricate, resulting in a residue of greasy stuff that attracts filth and makes the situation worse. How often to lubricate depends on riding conditions. The wetter, the more often. The more off-road, the more often. The harder the riding, the more often. We lube chains every 3 to 5 rides in dry weather. But we do not glob on the lube. We lube the rest of the bike much less often.
How to Apply the Lubricant
Chains
Clean the chain and drivetrain before lubrication.
For photographs and more details see the chapter on chain lubrication.
The quick way is to spray an aerosol lube on the chain while rotating it with the pedals. Keep the lube away from your brake pads and wheels. Let it soak in a few minutes, so it will seep into all the crevices, then wipe the lube off the exterior parts of the chain.
To reemphasize--WIPE THE LUBE OFF THE EXTERIOR PARTS OF THE CHAIN.
Failure to remove excess lube will leave your chain coated with a wet oil which will attract dust, and the oily dust will harden and accumulate on your chain, jockey wheels, chain rings, and cassette, making a nasty, destructive mess.
The best way to apply the lube is to place a drop of lube on each chain pivot. Apply one drop per pivot on the side of the chain which touches the gears. This is easiest done by applying the lube to the top of the chain as it exits the rear derailleur. Rotate the chain a few times. Let the lube soak in. Then wipe off the excess lube.
Derailleurs
Derailleurs don't need much lubrication. First, wipe the derailleurs clean. Then squeeze a drop of wet lube on the pivots of both derailleurs. Let it sit a few minutes, then wipe off the excess lube.
Derailleur Cable
It helps to work some wet lube into the cable housing, to prevent rust and keep things slick. This is sometimes the only fix necessary for unresponsive shifting.
For the rear derailleur cable:
1. Shift the rear derailleur into the big cog.
2. Without rotating the pedals or rear wheel, click the rear shifter all the way to the opposite position. If you had been rotating the rear wheel, you would have shifted to the small ring, but since you were not rotating the wheel the derailleur stayed on the big cog and all you did was loosen the cable. You can now slip the cable housing out of the dropouts that hold it to the frame. (Almost all modern bikes have slotted dropouts where the ends of the housing fits--you can slip the cable through the slots.)
3. Slip the cable out of the dropouts holding it to the frame.
4. Squeeze some wet lube in the housing where the cable enters, and work the cable up and down distributing the lube.
5. Put it all back together and check your derailleur adjustment.
For the front derailleur:
1. Shift the front derailleur into the small ring.
2. Pull the cable housing. This should give you enough clearance to slip the cable out of the dropouts holding it to the frame.
3. Repeat steps 3-5 for the rear derailleur.
Brakes
Brakes need lubrication even less often than derailleurs. First, wipe the levers and brakes clean. Squeeze a drop of wet lube on the pivots of the brakes. Squeeze the levers open and squeeze a drop on the pivots on the inside. Let it sit a few minutes and wipe off the excess. Be careful not to get lube on the brake pads or the rim.
Brake Housing
To get enough space to slip the brake cable through the dropout that holds it to the frame, you usually have to disconnect the brake cable at the brake. Slip the cable out of the dropout and drip some wet lube into the housing, and move the cable around some to distribute the lube. Put it all back together, and check your brakes.
Threads
When you thread anything into your bike, unless you know a specific reason not to, apply a light coat of bike specific grease to the threads.
On a very few threads (that home mechanics seldom work on, such a brake posts), it is better to use Loctite. If you buy a new part that has Loctite on the threads, don't apply grease.
If you have titanium bolts, check your owner's manual for the preferred lubricant.
If you are replacing a spoke, put some spoke prep or beeswax on the threads, not grease.
Seatposts
With non-carbon seatposts, put a little grease in the bicycle seat tube to prevent binding. When the grease dries up, wipe it out and put in new grease. A bound seatpost equals a ruined frame, so be diligent.
Carbon seatposts should not be greased.
Dry Lubes
Some cyclists prefer dry lubes for chains. Dry lubes are basically wax and alcohol. After application, the alcohol evaporates away, leaving only the wax. As the chain is used, the wax chips off, taking road grime with it, resulting in a cleaner drive train. We prefer Finish Line Krytech and White Lightning.
The advantage of dry lubes is a cleaner drive train. There's no buildup of nasty lube and dust. When the wax chips off, it takes grime with it.
But there are several disadvantages. First, wet lubes penetrate better into the crevices (and are therefore preferred by everyone in wet weather). Second, the consequence of using too much dry lube is an awful waxy buildup that interferes with the drive train and is hard to clean off. The second disadvantage is easily remedied by refraining from using too much. Don't apply a dry lube until you need it, don't apply very much, and remove any buildup. But because dry lubes make for a cleaner drive train in dusty conditions, some mechanics prefer them for hot, dry conditions.